I was fortunate enough to be invited along on a driving tour of some of Western Ireland’s most treasured scenery the other day with Mr. G and his cousin Orlaigh – who happens to be the daughter of one of the only “Burrenologists” and brought with her a book written by her dad with enough information to fill a couple brains. Naturally, she ordained me a burrenologist myself (along with her her father and one other, we’re the only ones in the world). So I feel like I can speak to the area.
There’s a place just south of Galway City where you are transferred to a place that seems completely out of it’s element of both time and location. I’m talking about The Burren (pronounced BURN) which is a national park contained within County Clare in Western Ireland. The Burren is only an hour or so drive from Galway city and is a fantastic day trip recommended for anyone. The scenery is out of this world. Giant rocky cliffs covered in green peat moss. The road is incredibly windy (and not recommended for anyone who just started driving, either on the left side of the road or a manual transmission) and the hills don’t make the driving situation any easier.
Along the way are several castles. The
first of which is the Dunguaire Castle located just outside of Kinvara. This castle dates back to the 16th century and was home to some ancient kings (don’t ask me who). The island the little castle resides on is a tidal island and the castle is completely surrounded by water at high tide. Tides here in Western Ireland are more fluctuating than any other I’ve experienced. At low tide, I live on the beach. At high tide, I live next to a rock wall that holds the ocean out of my house. It’s crazy. Anyway, this castle is a must see stop and is absolutely beautiful. In the summer time you can walk inside, but during the winter, the gates will be locked, so don’t try.
Another great castle is Leamaneh Castle. This castle has a really interesting history being inhabited by the same woman, Mary O'Brien, through several successions of husbands. Mary’s first husband was killed in a battle against the English. Knowing that her beloved home would soon be acquired by the British army, she offered to marry any Cromwellian officer who would have her as long as she could remain in the castle – thus retaining her estate, and living the rest of her life in her home. This castle isn’t the most beautiful to look at, but it is a nice site and a good break in the windy drive.
If you happen to be near Ballyvaughan, another great site to see is the Corcomroe Abbey. This old church dates back to the early 13th century and is a must see on a nice day. The Abbey is home to beautiful carvings, a crowded cemetery, lots of very old tombs and an effigy. There are even eagles that nest in the old tower so keep your eyes to the sky when you first walk in.
If you are inclined at this point, you 
are only about a half hour from the Cliffs of Moher (pronounced MORE) which, in my opinion, are a must see for any tourist who is in Western Ireland for more than a couple of days (sometimes even then). The cliffs are located near the town of Doolin and can be accessed from the north or south. You will have to pay €8 to park or you can take part in a charter tour (of which several run from either Galway City or Cork City). Some people don’t think too much of the cliffs, but I was absolutely blown away. Possibly because I had no pre-conceived idea of what they would look like. These cliffs TOWER over all that is below. Seagulls look like houseflies near the ocean which crashes into the side of the mountains in itty-bitty-tiny 20 foot waves.
On a sunny day from the tops of the cliffs (which I was lucky enough to experience), you can see all three Aran Islands (Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer), Galway City, Connemara, the cliffs and the vastness that is the Atlantic ocean. There is also a cute watchtower (O’Brien’s Tower) at the top of the hike where you can walk in and up for an even more stunning view of the panorama. The cliffs are equipped with an informative and new visitors center which is built cleverly (or annoyingly, as some locals will tell you) in the side of one of the cliffs. Oh and don't actually cliff dive off these. There is nothing but rocks at the bottom and the anti-suicide lines right before the gates will remind you that it's not a joke.
The details:
The Burren
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Burren
Open year round, best seen in the daytime, castle opening times vary, check individual sites for more information.
The Cliffs of Moher
http://www.cliffsofmoher.ie/
Opening hours: 9-dusk (varies, check the website)
O’Brien’s Tower has shorter visiting hours so check the website
Contact Number: +353 (0)65 7086141
E-mail: info@cliffsofmoher.ie